Monday, September 20, 2010

Vogue 8422: nice but not quite right

Yesterday, after setting the pants aside to be hemmed when I feel like it (and playing with the cat for a bit, which did wonders for my mood) I sewed up a muslin of Vogue 8422, View B. Since I'm without photo capability at the moment, you'll have to make do with the pattern drawing:

I used a super-cheap poly-spandex purchased online with the idea of testing stretch knit patterns like this one. Turns out it's more swimwear fabric than a street-wear knit, but it's not too far off the stretch rayon jersey I want to use in terms of weight and stretch.

I lowered the waist an inch, and left off the sleeves, and it turned out well. This top has tons of potential. The lower front is a separate panel that is slightly gathered at the bodice seam, which does a nice job of camouflaging a less-then-flat belly. The ties are huge, though, and have to be because there's so much fabric gathered into them on the side. I took a tip from a PatternReview comment and folded out some of the extra fabric on the left front, to reduce bulk. When I make this up "for real" I might do the same on the right front, too.

 However, I don't think it's the right pattern for the fabric I had in mind, which is this one:
Originally I'd thought the draping on this top would suit the fabric, but now I think the pattern will muffle the print, and the print will disguise the pattern shaping, both of which are worth showing off. I'm going to look for another pattern that will display this fabric better. Maybe something super-simple like the Textile Studio "Santa Monica" Tee.

I do think I'll make this top some day, but I'm taking it off the "get done before Oct. trip" list. I need a top I can wear with jeans, and I don't think this is it. It needs (on my shape) something with minimal tummy bulk  underneath it, like a flat-front pant or slim skirt with invisible side or back zip.

View A might go better with jeans:
I don't love the curved edge on the lower panel, but that's easy to redraft. This version is hovering at the lower edge of my "I might possibly get to this before I go" list. I have another fabric in mind, but haven't checked yet if I have enough yardage. Or figured out what I'd use for that ring detail.

With two weeks left until I pack my suitcase I'm determined to fit a little sewing into each day (something that has not happened the past couple weeks). This morning I tweaked the fit of the Jalie jeans muslin. I've done a lot of grousing about my experience making the Marrakesh pants, but copying that (final) crotch curve for the jeans got me very close on the first try, which is awesome, and well worth the fitting headaches for the first pant. I ended up adjusting the c-curve just a teeny bit, which is no suprise given the big difference in both pattern and fabric. Plenty of work stuff awaits my attention today, but with a little luck I can start cutting out the jeans fabric before the end of the day.

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